Louise & Tigerlily cycle Mexico - Panama
Diary - Last updated:

Beach Tiger

28 May

arrived at Managua, capital of Nicaragua.

We have covered 1506 miles
only 800 to go till Panama.

So far bike has punctured 4 times, the trailer twice. After making it from the US to Central America my favoured Nimbus tyres wore themselves out with all the weight bearing, heat exposure and some rough riding. Most roads are pretty fine but most countries have their fair share of terrible stretches. It isn't always funny cycling downhill dodging stones and potholes and who likes to put the brakes on a nice downhill when you've been slogging for an age to get up?

Now I have 2 new quite rubbish chunky tyres. Well that´s what comes from refusing to carry extras. I am at risk of becoming annoyingly happy. Our days fill me with joy. I was so excited to see an erupting volcano by the roadside just two days ago.

Today we met some beautiful Catholic Nuns who run a child protection unit / orphanage (also aided by PLAN) and we are invited to stay with them. The children told me they love living there, that it's so much fun. wow.

We also visited a women's co-operative, busy making cakes for Mothers' day celebration. This will be the 3rd Mothers' Day for us, as the date does vary from country to country. Amongst other crafts they make rag dolls. Because I was so enthusiastic about them, the school principal and leader of the women's group offered me a 3ft doll. "Umm, thanks so much but we travel by bike and it's a 1 person trailer. A tiny one would have been great." " OK, we'll make you a tiny one." "But… oh thank you so much but we leave in 2 days." " That's fine, you'll have it tomorrow."

Within a community that PLAN is helping there are several projects going on. Education and health are considered by community members that I talk with, to be the main areas they want to work on improving and of course employment is a big issue. Today we also met teenagers who have formed a band through a PLAN initiative. Three times a week they have music lessons and meet on the weekends for practice. They didn't want to stop showing us their repertoire but we also had to go and see a folk dance performance in another school.

That was only half the day.

We meet so many good people it sometimes feels too much, particularly so since we have been in touch with people involved with PLAN in the countries of El Salvador, Honduras and now Nicaragua (unfortunately I never managed to arrange visits in Guatemala)

It seems that El Salvador is considered the most dangerous Central American country to travel in (I can say all this now we've made it through). I guess the fact that there are still so many weapons around since the war doesn´t make it an incredibly safe place.

Ironically, although we may appear more vulnerable, a mother and child travelling together doesn´t draw negative attention in the way it can do for other travellers. This isn't to say I feel invincible. I just think ' be careful' and ultimately I believe I am doing the right thing. Someone else may never consider doing this kind of trip with a child, and some people shouldn't, but this is Tigerlily and me and this is what we do.

A mother and child cycling in this part of the world draws a lot of attention so it probably isn't surprising that we appeared on the 6 o´clock news. Once in Guatemala and again in El Salvador we were interviewed for TV. With my Spanish in great need of improvement I half expected our story to be ditched. Some days later we were cycling between visits to PLAN aided communities in Nicaragua when a family-filled car stopped excitedly to congratulate us, having seen us on TV days before. Before wishing us well they handed me $5 for Tigerlily! These acts of kindness just leave me with my jaw hanging. Of course now we are in Nicaragua, by far the poorest country in Central America, we are more often than not being asked for money.

Thanks to all the people who have sponsored us so far. As well as being a huge encouragement, it makes us much happier to know Plan are receiving something for all the work they do to help people help themselves. Thank you to all you wonderful people who have donated and those who will. You are super.